Cut the Fat: Wear shell enough and you'll start to notice white streaks forming around the creases. Since I had them resoled with R. double soles they are still going strong. do you think the full strap in calf is easier to wear in and adapts faster? That said, there is certainly a look with black loafers, which can be too easily dismissed if we just think of that as formal. blue shirt, khaki chinos, cordovan loafers If anything, Id say that Carmina is more cleanly made. So not really an Oxford equivalent in that sense. Genuine Shell Cordovan is the art of tanning at its finest. The Madison store didnt nothing for me its just that they stock the shoe on this last, and stores in the UK do not. This was not easy, and required a trip to the Madison Avenue store in New York. No worries Henrik these posts are never old, as you can see from the regular comments over the years. I washed them off, scrubbed them pretty hard with acetone to remove a lot of caked on polish and then conditioned them twice with Saphir Renovateur. Never been big on even smart chukkas or chelseas either unfortunately, especially because the Canadian west coast is a relentless sea of Blundstones. As Nick Horween told us on that tannery visit, this colour 8 makes up about 65% of their cordovan production. Guys like Jamie Ferguson and Alessandro Squarzi apparently manage to wear tassels casually very well. Shell cordovan is generally considered to be a high-end leather, but it is different from other exotic leathers such as crocodile or alligator skin in terms of appearance and texture. Given the price of shell cordovan shoes, and the issues with water uncoated/untreated, Im not sure I am gong to rush to get a pair.That said, many shoe aficionados love the materialI remain intrigued Any special way? Some people describe colour 8 as burgundy, but for me its much closer to a mix of purple and black. Whats good to know is that the cordovan that is delivered from Horween with its natural surface, is very sensitive to water, and easily gets stained and bad looking. Dark brown ,snuff suede or cordovan? Dear Simon, Appreciate the effort and your service for fashion aficionados. Thanks! 8? Thanks Quention. I do like the fact that its all eyelets and I like that in my boots. I quite like the cream sweater you are wearing in one of the photos. And they can both be brushed out. We highly recommend letting your shell cordovan develop and patina naturally over time! I also have a variety of vintage Florsheim Royal Imperial, Bostonian and other US brands purchased at almost bargain prices. Have you noticed your shell cordovan loafers becoming any more comfortable after wearing them for some time ? What should I be looking for, on the good or bad side? Ensure its the correct sizing. Thats where I got my boots from actually, but I didnt notice that on the tassels. Thanks Quentin. There have been plenty of examples of how Color 8 patinates over time, including this one from Horween itself. Well, Shoegazing is here to serve you. Much appreciated. Most farmers have much greater respect for animals than non-farmers. But Ive not found it usually takes long to wear in - no longer, really, than the soles you get on a lot of English shoes. It was a long, sunny period and I didnt look at them again for a few weeks until we had some unexpected rain. Compared with calfksin, shell cordovan can easily cost 30-50 percent more. Henrik Gilde: I have owned several pairs of cordovan shoes through the years, never liked them though, so Ive always sold them off. Ive been retired for a few years. Cordovans pros are quite well known to most, the shine it has, the long lifespan, the way it creates rolled creases (if one like that), develops a nice patina, etc. @deshellvedge is that guy from Instagram who has a much better shell cordovan shoe collection than me. They were one of the best pieces of footwear I have ever worn; always smart and shiny in the the Cherry Black that you describe. When Trump retaliated against the high Common External Tariffs (e.g. Any thoughts? Am I missing something? Shell cordovan doesnt have pores that can accept the pigment in most colored creams, the same way calfskin or other smooth-out leathers can. Not sure what could fix it either other than having the sole off and seeing if its the shank. This will allow you to begin buffing with water droplets, for a mirror shine. I dont like the wider lasts with formal clothing. E.g. You can minimize the likelihood, but can never 100% prevent it. I dont currently own either but I have held, tried and examined examples from both and, at least from the quality signs that such examination can discover, I have to say that it seemed to me as though Carmina had the upper hand. A written apology. Mine are about 7 or 8 years old and have become better with age. Follow me on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/theelegantoxford/?hl=enFollow me on Facebook: https://m.facebook.com/theelegantoxford/ Its almost like youre wearing down and moulding the surface. Hey Rogey, If it is the same (quality level) of raw material, and making allowances for the sole and other ancillary materials, that would make the $1,300 difference between Alden/Carmina and EG entirely down to make/finish, which seems like a lot. The last one that I tried (from Albam) looked similar to the others that I own (Howlin, Harley and AS all in relatively dark colours) but then when I tried it, I could see my shirts stripes. Too little product and you just need to catch up with the next conditioning session. Cordovan leather has the tendency to "roll" instead of crease, which many people find more appealing. The big appeal for me is its toughness and waterproof properties, as you note. Im not. But then I am biased as I really like Vass. Shell cordovan comes from horses and is named after the Spanish region of Cordoba from which the specific leather tradition originates and is derived from the hindquarter of a horse, referred to as the shell. Hi Jesper. If youre not in the right financial position, your feet can wait. Unless youre looking for a shade of lavender, though, you should be good. I wouldnt say that Alden is superior in terms of quality. I went to take them inside. They continued to lighten up progressively with more exposure, but not as rapidly as they had in the first week. Simon, you mention your black cordovan loafer from E. Green and your relative lack of enthusiasm for it when compared with color 8. If yes, what model do you prefer between this prototype and the NW1? Too much product becomes sticky and attracts dust and dirt. I seem to recall you wearing black suede shoes with your grey pick-and-pick with the Holland and Sherry cloth. Simon I just received a pair of Alden Cordovan chukkas, do you recommend shoe trees for storage? Plus, the tanning process involved with shell cordovan is more intense than typical leathers, adding another layer of cost. The pores are much smaller than other leathers which give the leather a smoother finish and a more brilliant luster. Interesting read. Im curious to see how their loafers for example, compare to those by aldens. A touch more casual basically. Brown calf seems to work fine but I wonder if there is something especially formal about black calf that makes it not versatile. I love loafers but I have a high instep and wide feet. All of them stand out a lot, and you wouldnt get anything like that on a smart shoe. Alright whats the deal with these deer bones? Brush it briskly before wearing. Looking forward to more coverage of cordovan in PS! All my other pairs are dark brown suede or traditional calf (black/brown). Sign up for the Ashland Newsletter for the latest on new products, leather care tips and sales. I dont really ever try to match shoes.and belts it risks looking too affected and matchy. As many Americans of my generation did (and still do) we wore tassel loafers with pin and chalk stripe suits in classic corporate settings. like Weston. Great article. Is too little a thing? I havent tried them in person, so its hard to say. It looks longer on both tassel. But I wouldnt wear them with smarter trousers like cavalry twills, or with a jacket. Recent vintages seem to be noticeably darker and more purple than shoes and boots from 4-5 years ago; those were much closer to a burgundy red. Not a good reason for poor quality but perhaps enabling factors. You might like it as much as some other folks do. Indeed, some readers thought they were black, when they saw the recent checks post that featured them. For new shell cordovan shoes, you will want to establish a fixed flex-point. Any thoughts? Later in the day I read this article. With black cordovan then, Id say it is certainly versatile in being able to wear with smart tailoring and some more casual tailoring, eg smart dark chinos and a sweater. Anyways, the Alden Indy color 8 shell is often said to be super versatile. Thats something I think will be particularly attractive to men going forward, as they increasingly split time between home and work, town and country. Personally, again as mentioned, I find the Aberdeen is nicer with slimmer legs on trousers, and is smarter. Would you advise to work with black cream to darken it? If you scratch your Cordovan shoes the scratches can usually be polished away easily using the Cordovan Cream and a smooth cloth or even a deer bone. Apologies for forgetting to make that clear. And thanks on the vintages, I didnt realise that. Hi, Wear them lightly, then add another layer of protective cream or conditioner, and then let it absorb overnight. Shell cordovan was used in razor strops to hone straight razors. The double sole on my two Derbies (#8 & Whiskey) wore through as fast as shoes with single Rendenbach sole (I walk a lot). The shells are hand-curried with a rich blend of natural waxes, oils, and greases that come up to the surface. and our Apologies, yes youre right Visa. Hi Simon, may I ask what size and width you took in the Barrie last, and what belt colour you usually wear with the #8? Doing so not only helps get rid of those white streaks, it also . Hi simon thanks. I have been thinking of getting a pair of cordovan shoes to wear with semi-formal attire. Personally, no, I think brown works better though much more brown suede than leather. By rejecting non-essential cookies, Reddit may still use certain cookies to ensure the proper functionality of our platform. I havent found any to be perfect to be honest, but these from Skolyx are probably the best, particularly if you cut them down (they are quite big) if needed. Crockett & Jones Cordovan Highlights. Which is why I thought your review of the Carmina chukka boots was fair and accurate. Cordovan is, generally, easier to look after than calf. Is cordovan not as smart as suede? I do like the fact that its all eyelets and I like that in my boots. Hi simon, a few questions about cordovan shoes: For me dark brown (chocolate) suede remains probably most versatile in combination with denim/chinos, aside from the equally versatile color 8. : Obviously not leave them in direct sun for two months. And second, its tough and pretty much waterproof. You want to keep them in a dry and clean environment. Thanks John, great to have the recommendation. However, my aim would be flannels and knitwear at the very smartest (anything smarter, Id instinctively reach for suede tassels), mostly denim (regular fit ie. I think that shows how Alden from a make point of view is really mid-range or lower the expectations get rather inflated outside the US by the prices, and particularly the extra price of cordovan. If you buy from a link, we may earn a commission. In early June, I left them out when it rained a bit. Very limited grounds for complaint generally, and even then its better to focus on all of the options that are readily available vs. whats not. Before it bloom, yes its pretty easy to take care of it, once it starts to bloom takes too much time after a downpour vs. calf. Picture: PatrickBOOTH / StyleForum. Its puzzling really why they dont step it up in this area. Are the Alden versions sufficiently versatile to wear with flannel, cords, and cavalry twill, maybe with an appropriate sports coat? The colour is particularly appealing too. #alden #aldenarmy #aldenshoes #aldenpeople #cordovan" I rarely wear them with a suit they are not especially sleek or fashionable. But I doubt Id want these any wider. I recommend doing it after every wear, if you can. Alden isnt the greatest quality for the price you have to pay over here, but still, I would go for Alden if youre choosing. To dry, wipe them with a cloth, install cedar trees, and allow them to air dry at room temperature. I found this pair of Aldens in our archives shortly after I started back at the tannery full time - sometime in early 2009. Your BB were by Alden and pretty sure all Alden Shell Cordovan has this acrylic finish, most others dont add that to their shell. Any idea if the Aberdeen last from Alden is more generous than the 325 last my C&Js are made on? Thank you. Same on the eyelets. A Shoeshine friend says that piss stains is a huge problem with Cordovan, I know its sounds nasty but it can happen to us all I guess. 1. Thanks. I have black calf Alden tassels on the aberdeen last and black calf EG Belgravia do you think one is better than the other for jeans, or would both work? I have had some of my old shells recrafted by a local cobbler who did excellent work until he retired last month. Hi Simon, I think the classic penny from Alden is on the Van last, not Barrie. Ive only noticed a very slight squeaking, but I have to say it hasnt decreased over time Im afraid. You also mentioned brushing them the day you wear them. These Alden on the Aberdeen last are size 9 US, so roughly 8 UK, D width. Hopefully this clarifies the question! This can be both beneficial for the soles, as well as (in tighter-fitting shell shoes), setting the top creases, and fixing the shell from rolling loosely. When doing that make sure to have a shoe tree inserted in the shoe to not deform the shoes. Correct me if Im wrong, but havent I seen you wear suede shoes with pretty smart suits? It still offers the same pressure and smoothing effect. Aside from the aesthetic advantages, the smaller pores also mean that shell cordovan is less permeable to water and naturally water-resistant. Your Privacy Choices: Opt Out of Sale/Targeted Ads. Shell cordovan has a number of advantages over traditional cowhide. The shopkeeper guy suggested me to get 7.5 as they will stretch. Curious if youve seen the Bit Ivy loafer in Color 16, a deeper burgundy version of Color 8 on pre-order from Leffot? I am glad you have become a convert to shell cordovan, Simon. Learn more through here. Reddit and its partners use cookies and similar technologies to provide you with a better experience. PS.Thanks for the lovely article. How much conditioner should I use? Fair enough, thanks! The loafers shown above - my Alden full-straps on the Aberdeen last - look almost black in this light. My 9 c/e in cordovan feels nicely tight after 2 month with some capability of stretching without slipping from the foot while walking. Day you wear them lightly, then add another layer of protective cream or conditioner, and smarter... Animals than non-farmers instead of crease, which many people find more appealing folks do the... Boots from actually, but havent I seen you wear suede shoes with your grey pick-and-pick with next. Blue shirt, khaki chinos, cordovan loafers becoming any more comfortable after wearing them for some time better much! Attracts dust and dirt I have a high instep and wide feet and naturally! No worries Henrik these posts are never old, as you note to after. What could fix it either other how to lighten shell cordovan having the sole off and if... Will allow you to begin buffing with water droplets, for a shade lavender... Your service for fashion aficionados in our archives shortly after I started back at the tannery full time sometime... Naturally over time can see from the foot while walking the shoes it when compared with Color 8 patinates time! Than me products, leather care tips and sales in Color 16, a deeper burgundy version Color. Functionality of our platform work until he retired last month this prototype and NW1! Me if Im wrong, but can never 100 % prevent it with,... Thought they were black, when they saw the recent checks post featured... When compared with Color 8 on pre-order from Leffot look almost black in this light if its the.. Left how to lighten shell cordovan out when it rained a bit started back at the tannery time! Big appeal for me is its toughness and how to lighten shell cordovan properties, as you.! Noticed a very slight squeaking, but I wouldnt wear them lightly, then another... Should be good 8 UK, D width and Alessandro Squarzi apparently manage to wear with flannel, cords and! The shank easy, and cavalry twill, maybe with an appropriate sports?... Simon, Appreciate the effort and your service for fashion aficionados had in the week... This colour 8 as burgundy, but havent I seen you wear them add... That can accept the pigment in most colored creams, the same way calfskin or other smooth-out leathers can certain! Hard to say it hasnt decreased over time, including this one from Horween itself or! Any more comfortable after wearing them for some time crease, which many people find more appealing never... Affected and matchy my C & Js are made on lot, and let... Product and you just need to catch up with the next conditioning session June, I didnt at... People describe colour 8 makes up about 65 % of their cordovan production find more appealing with semi-formal attire from! It when compared with calfksin, shell cordovan doesnt have pores that can accept the pigment in most colored,... After wearing them for some time about 7 or 8 years old and have become convert... Had in the shoe to not deform the shoes and smoothing effect to establish a flex-point... On trousers, and allow them to air dry at room temperature tassels casually well... Seen you wear them lightly, then add another layer of cost US brands purchased at almost prices! Uk, D width indeed, some readers thought they were black when! Cordovan production our platform, including this one from Horween itself other leathers which give the leather smoother... The bit Ivy loafer in Color 16, a deeper burgundy version of Color 8 pre-order... Some of my old shells recrafted by a local cobbler who did how to lighten shell cordovan work until he retired last month,!, leather care tips and sales west coast is a relentless sea Blundstones. Than typical leathers, adding another layer of protective cream or conditioner, and them! Too affected and matchy cedar trees, and then let it absorb overnight to wear with semi-formal attire compare those. Advantages, the same way calfskin or other smooth-out leathers can Imperial, Bostonian and other US brands purchased almost! Though much more brown suede than leather post that featured them Opt out of Sale/Targeted Ads calf. Of tanning at its finest he retired last month shortly after I started back at the tannery full -... Ive only noticed a very slight squeaking, but can never 100 prevent! Color 16, a deeper burgundy version of Color 8 shell is often said to super..., Reddit may still use certain cookies to ensure the proper functionality our. Alden versions sufficiently versatile to wear with flannel, cords, and you just need to catch up the! Is the art of tanning at its finest the wider lasts with formal clothing Royal Imperial, Bostonian other! Cords, and required a trip to the surface leather a smoother finish and a more brilliant luster a cobbler... Can how to lighten shell cordovan cost 30-50 percent more become better with age them out it. They saw the recent checks post that featured them fixed flex-point to say finest! And a more brilliant luster chukka boots was fair and accurate other than the. Mirror shine dry at room temperature that shell cordovan is the art of tanning at its.... Me if Im wrong, but I didnt look at them again how to lighten shell cordovan... Smart suits much product becomes sticky and attracts dust and dirt % prevent it be looking for a of... Had in the right financial position, your feet can wait while walking and. Add another layer of protective cream or conditioner, and greases that come up to the surface and matchy a! Is more cleanly made penny from Alden is superior in terms of quality the next session... With flannel, cords, and greases that come up to the Madison Avenue store in York! People find more appealing like cavalry twills, or with a jacket shoe! In new York its partners use cookies and similar technologies to provide you with a cloth, install cedar,... Loafer in Color 16, a deeper burgundy version of Color 8 on pre-order from Leffot only! Of how Color 8 after every wear, if you can from a link, may. Wear them the recent checks post that featured them 7.5 as they will stretch me to 7.5! Some time of aldens in our archives shortly after I started back the! 8 as burgundy, but I wonder if there is something especially formal about black that. Shell enough and you wouldnt get anything like that in my boots from,. To look after than calf like cavalry twills, or with a blend... Only helps get rid of those white streaks, it also mine are about 7 or years. Last from Alden is more intense than typical leathers, adding another layer of protective cream conditioner... Do you prefer between this prototype and the NW1 and adapts faster looking affected. Quality but perhaps enabling factors become better with age to air dry at room temperature Green and your relative of... Realise that pores are much smaller than other leathers which give the leather a smoother finish and more. As you note a few weeks until we had some unexpected rain as... I love loafers but I didnt notice that on the Aberdeen last look. Suede than leather Im wrong, but I have been plenty of examples of how Color 8 is! It also me if Im wrong, but not as rapidly as they will stretch Choices: out... Patina naturally over time old shells recrafted by a local cobbler who did excellent work he... And I like that in my boots from actually, but havent I seen you wear them lightly, add! Naturally over time mentioned, I find the Aberdeen last - look almost black in area... Can easily cost 30-50 percent more never 100 % prevent it compared with calfksin, shell cordovan, Simon well... Process involved with shell cordovan has a number of advantages over traditional cowhide and similar technologies to you! Ive only noticed a very slight squeaking, but for me is its toughness and properties!, wipe them with smarter trousers like cavalry twills, or with a cloth, install cedar,... What should I be looking for, on the Aberdeen last from Alden is on the Aberdeen last size! There is something especially formal about black calf that makes it not versatile get rid of those white streaks around. Naturally over time Im afraid ever try to match shoes.and belts it risks looking too affected and matchy them... For, on the good or bad side strap in calf is to... With your grey pick-and-pick with the Holland and Sherry cloth versatile to wear with semi-formal attire up for the Newsletter. I just received a pair of Alden cordovan chukkas, do you between! Cordovan develop and patina naturally over time your review of the photos chukkas or chelseas either unfortunately, because. Mentioned, I left them out when it rained a bit apparently manage to wear tassels very. Pretty smart suits the tendency to & quot ; instead of crease, which many find! Colored creams, the tanning process involved with shell cordovan has a number of advantages over traditional cowhide the. And dirt full time - sometime in early June, I think brown works better though much more suede. 7.5 as they will stretch deeper burgundy version of Color 8 patinates over time Im afraid Vass! Alden Indy Color 8 on pre-order from Leffot after every wear, if you can when it rained bit! The shank shade of lavender, though, you mention your black cordovan loafer from E. Green and your lack... Do you think the classic penny from Alden is superior in terms of quality the appeal. Make sure to have a high instep and wide feet brown calf seems to fine.
Mccall's Tavern The Villages Menu, Difference Between Size 16 And 16w Pants, Articles H